Рестораны Пьемонта - мини гид (английский и немного русский)

Рестораны Рима Венеции Флоренции Милана. Ночная жизнь в Риме Милане Венеции. Итальянская кухня кулинарные курсы в Италии, итальянские вина, сыры, колбасы, оливковое масло из Италии, Выставки вина, праздники и культурные мероприятия в Италии

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Рестораны Пьемонта - мини гид (английский и немного русский)

Сообщение: #1

Сообщение pablo_hassan1 » 14 окт 2009, 10:40

Перепощу это в этом разделе - может кому пригодится.

Мини-гид от Антонио Галлони - ревьюера из wine advocate, который специализируется на пьемонте и шампанских винах)).

Сам был в двух местах, друзья - еще в паре. Завтра выложу.


Добавлено спустя 14 часов 59 минут 8 секунд:
Antinè (Barbaresco)
Antinè is located in Barbaresco, right next to the imposing cellars of Angelo Gaja. I have been eating here regularly for at least six years and have seldom been disappointed. Chef Andrea Marino excels in the classics such as carne cruda and agnolotti del plin, which are easily among the finest interpretations in the area. Other terrific dishes include various risottos (cooked here very al dente), leek tart with fonduta, rabbit braised in Barbaresco, poached eggs with truffles and innumerable others. I rarely order dessert as I prefer to explore the cheese selection, but Marino takes his creations to another level. Readers with a sweet tooth won’t want to miss the dolci here. Among the one Michelin-star restaurants, Antinè also offers the best value for the money. The tasting menu during truffle season has historically been very fairly priced.

The wine list is well-priced and impressive in its breadth, especially given the small size of the restaurant. Virtually all major producers of note are represented. Diners will also find a small selection of older vintages from Produttori del Barbaresco, the historic estate located just down the main road. Service is professional and thorough, although for a city person such as me the pace can sometimes be a little slow. There are more showy dining rooms in Piedmont, but readers who don’t need to see and be seen are likely to enjoy some of the best food and wine in the region in this small, intimate restaurant.

Antinè
Via Torino 34/a
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
tel +39-0173-635294

Antica Corona Reale Da Renzo (Cervere)
Antica Corona Reale Da Renzo, known simply as “Da Renzo” by locals is one of my favorite spots in Piedmont. Da Renzo is located in Cervere, which is about a 25 minute drive from La Morra. Owing to its distance from the major wine producing towns Da Renzo is perhaps the least well-known of the top restaurants among tourists, but it is well worth a visit.

Chef and owner Gian Piero Vivalda offers mostly traditional cuisine in an elegant, if somewhat old-fashioned, country home setting. The cuisine at Da Renzo is markedly different from what readers will find in the area’s other restaurants. Classic dishes such as carne cruda are offered, as are more unique and unforgettable dishes such as fried baby frogs (delicious with a glass of Barolo) and anything with local wild leeks and snails, all local specialties of this small town. Last year the cocotte with white truffles was the most delectable and hedonistic truffle dish I tasted in Piedmont. Though not inexpensive, it was utterly mind blowing. The various pasta dishes are also highlights. I rarely miss an opportunity to order the tortelli al seirass-tortelli filled with a local variety of ricotta. I am told by those who appreciate tripe that Renzo’s is among the best versions, although I admit it is a dish for which I have never been able to cultivate a keen interest. Service at Renzo is refined and is without question among the most professional in the region.

Antica Corona Reale da Renzo
Via Fossano, 15
12040 Cervere (CN)
tel +39-0172-474132

Locanda nel Borgo Antico (Barolo)
I have enjoyed several superb meals at Locanda nel Borgo Antico recently. The restaurant is located off an unpaved road between Barolo and Monforte and sits in the middle of a vineyard with gorgeous views. In good weather guests are brought into a beautiful open-air terrace to enjoy an aperitivo and peruse the menu while watching the sun set behind the vines. The main dining room is large and the tables far apart, adding to the sense of spaciousness. Chef and owner Massimo Camia offers two menus, one based one the traditional dishes and another which is more innovative. Diners can also order a la carte. Among the dishes I have enjoyed are carne cruda, roasted quail served on a bed of wild rice with goose liver sauce, eggplant tortelloni with Castelmagno sauce, and pork tenderloin with caramelized shallots. I have usually stopped at the cheese selection rather than sampling the desserts.

The wine list has been built out nicely over the last few years. Unfortunately my experience with wines here has been mixed. Although the restaurant houses a temperature controlled cellar on the ground floor, not all wines are stored in this room. I was frankly saddened to see a large number of Barolos from the area’s finest producers stored standing up at room temperature, something that is completely unacceptable at this level, or any level for that matter. It is hardly surprising that our bottle of Giacomo Conterno’s 2001 Barolo Cascina Francia was completely cooked. Readers are best off making a visit to the cellar and choosing a well-stored bottle rather than taking a chance on an improperly-stored wine as we did. A bottle of Aldo Vajra’s 2001 Barolo Bricco delle Viole from the cellar was outstanding.

Locanda nel Borgo Antico
Cascina Lo Zoccolaio località Boschetti 4
12060 Barolo (CN)
tel +39-0173-56355

La Ciau del Tornavento (Treiso)
La Ciau del Tornavento is one of Piedmont’s most dramatic dining rooms. Set in the hills of Treiso, in the heart of the Barbaresco zone, La Ciau offers dramatic views of these gorgeous vineyards through large sliding glass doors which are left open when weather permits. The tables are spaced far apart, which adds to the feeling of calmness and serenity. La Ciau is most famous for its extraordinary wine cellar, which is the passion of Chef/Owner Maurilio Garola, one of a handful of local restaurateurs who treats his wines with the care they deserve. Only a portion of the wines in the cellar are actually on the list at any given time. Readers who have the opportunity to take a tour through the cellar should not hesitate to do so.

Over the years La Ciau has acquired a reputation for somewhat inconsistent cuisine, but that is largely because the restaurant is located in Piedmont, where the competition is extraordinarily formidable. La Ciau would easily rank among the very finest restaurants in any other region in Italy or major metropolitan city in the world.

One of the hallmarks of Chef Garola’s cooking is a greater reliance on fish and seafood than is normally the case in the region’s other restaurants of this level. La Ciau is awfully hard to beat for a great all-around dining experience, although for some reason I have never eaten here during truffle season.

Ristorante La Ciau del Tornavento
Piazza Baracco, 7
12050 Treiso (CN)
tel +39-0173-638333

Da Cesare (Albaretto Torre)
Chef Cesare Giaccone is an institution in Piedmont. He is an especially legendary figure in this remote corner of Piedmont known as Alta Langa. For decades Da Cesare has been a destination point for those seeking the finest food and wine in the region. A few years ago, seeking to scale back and simplify things a bit, Giaccone moved the restaurant back to his original house. Tucked off the main road in Albaretto Torre, the "new" Da Cesare offers a homier, more intimate setting. Guests enter through a beautiful, rustic terrace where the aperitif is served in the summer months. Giaccone prepares his usual range of dishes in an open kitchen, including his signature spit-roasted capretto (baby goat). The menu is now prix-fixe, around 70 euros a person (cash only) with limited choices, which have been two options for the pasta course and the main course on my most recent visits. Cesare is an eccentric, so he is not always “on” but when he is, he still gives the younger generation of chefs a run for their money, to say the least. The wine list is inconsistent and I often make arrangements to bring my own wines, something I have seen other diners do as well. No visit to Piedmont is complete without at least one visit to Da Cesare, but readers will need to hurry as Cesare plans to close at the end of 2008.

Da Cesare судя по всему переехал на хозяйство Фонтанафредда.

Da Cesare
Via Umberto 12
Albaretto della Torre (CN)
Tel. +(39) 0173 52 01 41

Osteria Veglio (La Morra)
Osteria Veglio offers excellent cuisine in an informal, rustic country-style setting. In the summer, outdoor seating is also available, providing diners with stunning views of the surrounding vineyards. I usually stick pretty close to the traditional dishes which chef/owner Franco Gioelli prepares with great skill. The wine list is excellent, in keeping with the more moderate level of the restaurant, although more attention could be given to keeping the list reasonably updated. On my last visit well over half of the Champagnes on the list were unavailable, something that indicates an appalling attention to detail. On the plus side, Osteria Veglio is light on the budget and offers terrific value for the money.

Osteria Veglio
Frazione Annunziata 9
12064 La Morra (CN)
tel +39-0173-509341

Centro Storico (Serralunga)
The tiny Centro Storico, appropriately located in the old historical center of Serralunga, has become one of my favorite spots in Piedmont for a casual meal. Visitors looking for a break from the region's more elegant restaurants will delight in the informal atmosphere which includes a few tables for outdoor eating during the summer months. There are no fancy linens, finely-appointed tables or elaborately prepared dishes. Instead, diners will find a surprisingly extensive and reasonably-priced wine list along with hearty, delicious fare. The main attraction, however, is proprietor Alessio Cighetti and his larger-than-life passion for food and wine. Cighetti is also a fan of Champagnes and he stocks one of the best selections in the Langhe.

Centro Storico
Via Roma 6
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
Tel. + 39 0173 613 203

Guido da Costigliole Relais San Maurizio (Santo Stefano Belbo)
For decades Guido Alciati, his wife Lidia and their family ran Guido, the landmark restaurant in Costigliole d’Asti. Guido attracted diners from all over the world for Lidia’s sublime cooking and Guido’s legendary wine list. Upon Guido’s passing some years ago, his sons Pietro and Andrea went their separate ways. Pietro opened his version of Guido in the beautiful gastronomical complex in Pollenzo, which is worth a visit just to see the grounds. Unfortunately I have had mixed experiences both times I have eaten there. Andrea Alciati’s Guido is located in the gorgeous Relais San Maurizio in the heart of Moscato country. The restaurant itself is beautifully appointed. The tables are spaced far apart but the vaulted ceiling gives a sense of intimacy.

An extensive cellar lies below, full of treasures from all of the region’s top producers. For a very reasonable corkage fee of 10 euros the restaurant will serve any wine a diner brings in, but that hardly seems necessary considering the wines that are available on the list. Along with the cellar at La Ciau del Tornavento, this is one of the region’s most impeccably stored collections. Guido serves mostly lighter, refined versions of the area’s classic dishes. The vitello tonnato and the agnolotti are both wonderful. The poached egg with white truffles I had last year was sublime. Customers who have access to their own truffles can bring them in and have a menu custom-designed around the truffle. I am not sure what this is called, BYOT (Bring Your Own Truffle) perhaps, but the idea of walking into Guido with my own truffles sounds immensely appealing. Service is formal without being overbearing. Guido is a great choice for an elegant lunch or dinner.

Guido da Costigliole Relais San Maurizio
Località San Maurizio, 39
12058 S.Stefano Belbo (CN) - Italy
Tel.: + 39 0141 841900 - Fax. +39 0141 843833

Also Recommended:

Il Centro (Priocca)
A great choice for informal, mostly traditional cooking with some contemporary touches.
Il Centro
Via Umberto 1˚, 5
Priocca d’Alba (CN)
tel + 39 0173 616 112
fax + 39 0173 616 112

Enoclub (Alba)
This casual restaurant is located in the center of town and focuses on refined versions of the region’s classic dishes with modern flair. The warm, underground dining room is most evocative in the fall and winter.
Enoclub
Piazza Savona 4
12051 Alba (CN)
Tel +39 0173 220629

Le Torri (Castiglione Falletto)
Le Torri is located next door to Vietti. The kitchen’s strength is the traditional dishes of the region. Some tables offer lovely views of the vineyards. Le Torri is part of a hotel complex, so for readers who overindulge rooms are always an option.
Le Torri
Piazza V. Veneto, 10
CastiglioneFalletto (CN)
Tel +39 0173 62849

La Libera (Alba)
La Libera is another great choice for diners who want to stay in the city center. The kitchen excels in lighter versions of the classics. The wine list is extensive, well-chosen and well-priced.
La Libera
Via Elvio Pertinace, 24
12051 Alba
Tel +39 0173 293155‎

помимо вышеуказанных, еще

Osteria Da Gemma
via Marconi 6 12050
Roddino.
и gradita la prenotazione
Tel. 0173/794252

Типичное место, с местной кухней. Нет меню - одно - два блюда на выбор на первое и второе плюс закуси и дессерт. Очень бюджетно, но качественно.

Trattoria Bivio in Albaretto della Torre tel: 0173 520-383 (closed tues)
Loc. Cavallotti, 9
12050 Cerretto Langhe

Приятное место, немного старомодное. Кухна местная, немного усложненная, в целом очень хорошо. Хорошый выбор сыров. Есть очень неплохой вид на холмы и виноградники, так как стоит прямо на склоне холма.
pablo_hassan1
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